El Chaltén to Bariloche bus: Are we there yet?

The worst thing about being at the arse end of the world is that it's a really, really bloody long way from anywhere. So when I wanted to leave El Chalten, in Argentina's southern Patagonia, I really only had one option - a 24-hour-long bus trip along Ruta 40 to Bariloche. And yes, it was … Continue reading El Chaltén to Bariloche bus: Are we there yet?

A hell of a time in El Chaltén

El Chaltén is a great little town surrounded by natural beauty, but when I found out I'd be stuck here for a week due to a lack of buses, I wasn't the happiest little Vegemite. The townsfolk are preparing to close the place down for the winter, so there are hardly any restaurants or bars … Continue reading A hell of a time in El Chaltén

Goon and lagoons: The Laguna de los Tres trail

The Laguna de los Tres hiking trail in El Chalten, Argentina, is one of the most awe-inspiring walks in tbe world. It sweeps along ancient cliffs, past raging rivers, and towards glowing glaciers - but I didn't get to enjoy much of it because I was monumentally hungover after a night of drinking the dodgiest … Continue reading Goon and lagoons: The Laguna de los Tres trail

Torres del Paine, Day Quattro: The rain in Paine falls mostly on me

Torrential rain. Sub-zero temperatures. Sleet and snow. Cyclonic winds. They sound like good names for heavy metal bands, but they're not the kind of words you want to hear while you're hiking through Chile's Torres del Paine National Park. My fourth day on the W Trek dawned with absolutely appalling weather that saw a number … Continue reading Torres del Paine, Day Quattro: The rain in Paine falls mostly on me

Torres del Paine, Day Tres: Avalanches A-Go-Go!

Patagonia's hiking wonderland of Torres del Paine is like 50 worlds in one. It doesn't take long to walk from dense forest to sparse flatlands, or to wander from bright sunshine into pelting rain, dense fog or worse. For my third day on the W Trek, I made my way up the Frances Valley towards … Continue reading Torres del Paine, Day Tres: Avalanches A-Go-Go!

Torres del Paine, Day Dos: Prances to Frances

After a spectacular first day in Chile's Torres del Paine National Park, I was looking forward to a cracking second day that would see me hike 23km from Camp Grey to Camp Frances. This section of the W Trek winds past lakes, mountains and waterfalls, but when I woke up, all I could see was … Continue reading Torres del Paine, Day Dos: Prances to Frances

Punta Arenas – Industrial wasteland at the end of the world

After the lush, green beauty of Chile's Los Lagos district, flying into Patagonia was like soaring into another dimonsion. Over the course of the most remarkable plane trip of my life the trees, mountains and volcanoes gave way to gnarled shrubs, murky swamps and endless flatlands - an alien landscape that makes it hard to … Continue reading Punta Arenas – Industrial wasteland at the end of the world

Osorno Volcano is Beuno!

Since arriving in Puerto Varas, Chile, a few days ago, the mammoth spectre of Volcan Osorno has been haunting me. The ancient behemoth has been hiding behind the clouds, peering out sporadically to give me some idea of his glory, before disappearing again. I'd had enough, so today I decided to go out and find … Continue reading Osorno Volcano is Beuno!

Tutti Frutillar

What's the fruitiest little town on the planet? No, it's not Orange, and it's certainly not Berry, it's the Southern Chilean village of Frutillar, a picturesque spot on the shores of Lago Llanquihue. With its gorgeous Germanic architecture, tree-lined streets and sweeping views out over Volcan Osorno, this place is sweeter than a handful of … Continue reading Tutti Frutillar

The Wetter the Better in Parque Nacional Huerquehue

After sleeping off my hangover, I woke up bright and early and ready to hike to the top of Volcan Villarrica, near Pucon in Chile. But when I skipped outside, the big bastard wasn't there anymore. It was like he'd thrown up his massive molten hands during the night, said 'Fuck it' and just walked … Continue reading The Wetter the Better in Parque Nacional Huerquehue