I’m a Savai’i-ver!

Last night, I had the best sleep of my life. Alright, second best, after that time I tried heroin. I woke up to brilliant sunshine and swaying palm trees, then matched it with a giant breakfast of cereal, fruit, eggs and toast. I can tell you, the morning after my experience with heroin wasn't anywhere … Continue reading I’m a Savai’i-ver!

Getting stoned in Samoa isn’t as fun as it sounds

Despite quaffing only 12 beers the night before, I woke up with a hangover that could kill a Somali pirate. But it's hard to complain when the view from your fale looks straight onto the beach - and all for the bargain price of $20 a night! My headache was sorted out with a snorkel, … Continue reading Getting stoned in Samoa isn’t as fun as it sounds

My pilgrimage to the beach of ghosts

Waking up in Samoa is like waking up in the distant past. Despite spending the night a five minute walk from the centre of the capital, I stumbled out of my fale to the sounds of insects and birds, with palm trees swaying and the pool sparkling. The air was fresh, the weather was warm, … Continue reading My pilgrimage to the beach of ghosts